Stained Glass Tips and Techniques
   
Stained Glass Flux Use of a quality stained glass flux is important for a quality solder bead. Paste flux is difficult to clean off stained glass and is intended for plumbing applications. Rosin core solders spit and sputter and can cause holes in the solder bead. A Bashful Rainbow prefers Classic 100 Gel Flux. It does not smoke, spit or sputter. Use only a small amount of this flux. If you get spitting or sputtering, you used way too much.
   
Foiling "globs" Foil globs with 1/8" copper foil. When foiling a large number of globs, apply foil, do not burnish. Place the globs in a small (or large) Rubbermaid type container and shake vigorously. The globs will magically burnish themselves. The use of 1/8" copper foil makes for a much cleaner appearing project.
   
Copiers
 Always remember that ordinary copiers distort designs. The distortion is usually 10-15%. So, if you are depending on a copier to enlarge a design, you need to compensate for the distortion. Or, use a blueprinting service (an expensive option).

Always redraw your perimeter lines on graph paper. Make sure that the shape of the perimeter is truly a rectangle, square, circle, octagon, etc. Enlarge your design to the desired size and trace it within the boundaries of the perimeter shape.

When enlarging symmetrical designs, enlarge and trace 1/2 or 1/4 of the design (depending on the type of symmetry. Then, fold your graph paper in half (or quarters) and trace the design on the other half (or quarter) of the paper. This assures that the design is truly symmetrical.

Keep in mind that books are simply copies and may also be distorted. So, always check to make sure that the pattern in the book is the proper shape and is symmetrical.
   

Patinas

The application of a fine patina is extremely important to the finished appearance of almost all stained glass projects. Only rarely is a project enhanced by leaving the solder raw (silver).

Three things that are absolutely essential in the application of a fine patina are:
1. Absence of oxidation on the project.
2. Meticulous cleaning of the project.
3. Polishing the project after the patina is applied.

It is easier to prevent oxidation than to remove it once it has occured. Oxidation starts forming immediately on all metals, including solder. The simplest way to prevent oxidation is to clean the project and apply the patina immediately after the soldering is completed. If the project has sat around for awhile, clean off all the solder seams with fine bronze wool before begining to apply the patina. Bronze wool does not interact chemically with the patina so it is a better choice than steel wool for the cleaning process.

Clean the project immediately after soldering with CJ's Flux Remover, NutraClean, Kwik Clean Spray. Use of a water soluble flux makes the job of completely removing the flux much easier. Paste flux is very difficult to remove and causes problems with the final patina appearance.

Apply the patina (copper, black or black pewter) using a Kwik Clean Scrub that is saturated with Kwik Clean (works wonders). Scrub the patina onto the solder with a true scrubbing motion. Absolutely, use rubber gloves anytime you are working with patina. Patina is a heavy metal and can be absorbed by the skin.

Polish the project with Kem Pro Finishing Compound immediately after applying the patina. The Kem Pro make the patina (and the glass) gleam and it is amazing how great the project will look after it is patinaed and polished.
   

Tools

 Buy the very best tools that you can afford. A quality tool will save you lots of frustration and prevent a pile of broken glass. It is especially important to work with a carbide wheel cutter and a high quality breaker and/or grozer. Ask your stained glass retailer for advice on which tools are best for you. At A Bashful Rainbow Stained Glass, you can try out most of the tools before you buy.
   

Cutting Surface

 There are a number of suitable surfaces for cutting glass. No matter what surface is chosen, it must be kept clean of glass shards. If using a solid surface, it is necessary to clean the surface frequently with a bench brush and dust pan. If the surface is allowed to collect glass shards, any glass that is placed on the surface is in danger of being scratched or broken.

A very popular surface for glass cutting is the Morton surface, either the mini or maxi size. The Morton surface catches glass shards in the grid surface and prevents the glass from being damaged. Be careful when using the Morton surface that shards of glass do not stick up from the grid surface. Those pesky shards may damage the glass or your fingers.

Carpeted surfaces do not work well for cutting glass. The carpet can hide glass shards and damage the glass or your fingers. Carpet also allows the glass to flex and can lead to a broken piece of glass.
   
Warm Glass Warm glass cuts much easier than cold or room temperature glass. Glass can be warmed by placing the glass in the oven, using a hair dryer or heat gun, placing under a heating pad or electric blanket or placing in a hot car. Follow normal safety precautions with which ever method is used to warm the glass. Heat the glass just warm enough so it is still comfortable to handle.
   
Cutting Glass

Glass cutting requires a light touch. Difficulty with glass breaking is often caused by applying too much pressure on the glass with the glass cutter.
Practice session: Make a straight score on a scrap piece of glass using the amount of pressure you usually use. Then make four more scores, each score progressively lighter than the one before. Use a running plier or a breaker to break out each score. Start with the last score, the one that was scored with the lightest pressure. If that score breaks easily, that is the amount of pressure to use when cutting. Try this with other scores until you find a score pressure that works well for you.
Concentrate on using a light pressure when cutting glass and your cutting will improve dramatically in a short time.

   

Caring for a
Glass Cutter

A good glass cutter is the single most important tool in a stained glass crafter's tool box. Taking care of the cutting wheel will extend the life of the cutter and improve your cutting skills.
Keep flux and other corrosive chemicals away from the glass cutter.
Maintain the cutting wheel by using a quality glass cutting oil. Glass cutting oil is available at your local retail stained glass store.
Keep the cutting wheel turning freely by cleaning it frequently with a dry rag. This keeps glass shards from getting stuck in the wheel opening and damaging the wheel.
Use a lubricant like WD-40 occasionally on the cutting wheel.
Do not drop the cutter. This can damage the wheel.
Scoring perpendicularly across another score will not harm a cutter. However, running the cutter on top of and along another score can damage the wheel.
If the cutter is not cutting well, check the wheel by running a score on a scrap piece of mirror. If the score line is broken or uneven (which is easy to see on a mirror) a new cutter head is in order.
   

Grinder Care

Don't allow glass "sludge" to build up against the grinder shaft. This causes stress on the motor. Clean grinder frequently.
Drain water from grinder. Remove glass sludge with a putty knife. Do not allow glass sludge to dry before cleaning. Remove the sludge while it is wet. This prevents the glass dust from becoming air borne. Inhaling glass dust is dangerous to your lungs.
Clean the remaining damp glass sludge from the reservoir with wet paper towels.
Lubricate the grinder shaft every time you move or remove the grinder head. Use petroleum jelly, Carmex or similar product. This prevents the grinder head from freezing on the shaft.
Use of a commercial grinder coolant in the water will allow the motor to run cooler and the grinder head will last longer.

   
Safe Shopping

It is very dangerous to shop for glass in sandals and shorts. Glass can break without warning and a nasty cut may result.
Please protect yourself by wearing closed toe shoes and slacks when shopping for glass. At A Bashful Rainbow Stained Glass you will be reminded if you come in to the store wearing sandals. Remember, the reminder is for your safety.

   
Non Skid Surface
 Add a roll of non skid shelf liner to your studio. Use it under workboards, Morton surfaces, etc. to keep them from sliding while you are working. When carrying glass to classes, or storing the cut glass, layer the glass pieces in a box with the non skid shelf liner between the layers.
   

Glass Records

 It is always a good idea to keep a record of glass stock numbers. When building a project keep a sample of each glass used. Record the stock number of the glass on the sample with a marking pen. It will make it easier to find the same glass again and will help your stained glass retailer locate the glass.
   
Children A stained glass store can be a dangerous place for children. Leaving small children at home is probably the best idea, but, if you must bring them, keep them under control and away from glass racks. It doesn't take much for a child (or adult) to brush against the edge of a piece of glass and come away with a laceration.
More tips and techniques will be added frequently. So, check back often.
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